Yahoo Travel – sep08
BERGERAC, FRANCE ~~~ Britt Karlsson: Cofounder of BKWine, with her husband, Per. The Paris-based company publishes wine newsletters and leads small-group gastronomy and wine tours throughout Europe (bkwine.com). ~~~~~ Born in Sweden and now living in Paris, Britt Karlsson spends half the year visiting about 200 wineries in Europe and South America in her roles as wine journalist, wine judge, wine consultant, and tour guide (on wine-themed trips, of course). ~~~~~ Bergerac is the name of both a wine region and a small city, but travelers often bypass both in favor of nearby higher-profile Bordeaux. And that’s a blessing, says Karlsson. Bergerac’s cobblestoned streets, inviting markets and shops, and location on the Dordogne River are so appealing that Karlsson now periodically includes the town as a stop—staying at the central Hôtel de Bordeaux—on her tours. ~~~~~ Karlsson recommends pairing a local sweet wine, such as a Monbazillac or Saussignac, with another of Bergerac’s specialties: foie gras. “The tenderness of the foie gras is perfect with the luscious sweetness of the wine,” she says. “Many small shops, like Godard, sell artisan-made foie gras, which is so much better than what you get at a supermarket. The foie gras entier mi-cuit is my favorite, but everything from the duck is good—the breast and the confit.” ~~~~~ Karlsson also raves about the grilled duck breast at L’Enfance de Lard, a reasonably priced restaurant overlooking a fountain and the main square. Even a winter visit comes with its rewards, because that’s the season for yet another Bergerac specialty: black truffles. ~~~~~ Information: Round-trip Ryanair flights to Bergerac from London, from $105, or round-trip train tickets from Paris, from $237; Hôtel de Bordeaux, 38 place Gambetta, hotel-bordeaux-bergerac.com, from $85; Godard, 29 rue des Conférences, 011-33/5-53-61-93-49; L’Enfance de Lard, 8 place Pélissière, 011-33/5-53-57-52-88, grilled duck breast $24.
WEYMOUTH, ENGLAND ~~~ John Chatterton and Richie Kohler: Scuba divers who inspired the books Shadow Divers and Titanic’s Last Secrets (johnchatterton.com, richiekohler.com). ~~~~~ Most people’s idea of the idyllic dive spot tends to involve turquoise water and colorful fish, but that’s not what John Chatterton or Richie Kohler has in mind. The scuba divers rose to fame through Robert Kurson’s 2004 best seller, Shadow Divers, which chronicled their quest to identify human remains in a sunken U-boat. That led to solving underwater mysteries around the world for the History Channel series Deep Sea Detectives. Their most recent investigation (which took them to Canada, Ireland, Greece, and two and a half miles under the surface of the Atlantic Ocean) is the subject of Brad Matsen’s Titanic’s Last Secrets, due out next month. Given their knack for uncovering hidden clues and treasures, it’s no surprise that the divers rank the once pirate-friendly port of Weymouth, England, as one of their favorite towns. ~~~~~ Weymouth’s cobblestoned streets, Georgian homes, and sandy beaches along the English Channel are magnets for British sunseekers. But for divers, its waters have their own attractions: “Wars and storms have been sinking ships here for more than 900 years,” Kohler says. “In one day, you can rub shoulders with Roman shipwrecks, 16th-century Dutch sailing fleets, and submarines from both world wars.” ~~~~~ When on shore, Kohler and Chatterton explore nautical antiques stores and old bookshops before sitting down with a pint at The Boot Inn, a 400-year-old pub that’s rumored to have been popular with 17th-century pirates. Today, the town’s stone quays host a mix of fishing boats—which sell sea bass, scallops, and lobsters—and high-speed catamarans. Since no trip to the English seaside is complete without fish-and-chips, a local introduced the divers to Marlboro Restaurant, where the Johnsons have been serving the dish for three generations. “It’s best enjoyed with liberal amounts of salt and malt vinegar,” says Kohler. ~~~~~ Information: Trains from London take three hours, nationalrail.co.uk, from $24; The Boot Inn, High West St., 011-44/1305-770327; Marlboro Restaurant, 46 St. Thomas St., 011-44/1305-785700, large fish-and-chips from $11.
